A time was when haute couture represented the height of what was believed to be fashion all across the world. It was about selling fantasies and creativity back when fashion was popular, and the work that Paris couturiers put into their creations for their customers became renowned. Because of their couture collections, some of the most famous names in the fashion industry, such as Coco Chanel and Christian Dior, became household names throughout the world. As time went on and ready-to-wear, also known as pret-a-porter, became more popular, the number of people who collected couture garments decreased. Customers found it more convenient to purchase off the rack when upscale department shops such as Barneys, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Bergdorf’s began stocking ready-to-wear collections by European designers. Previously, they had to wait an entire season for a fully customized outfit. What characteristics distinguish a collection as haute couture? The phrase “haute couture” is a label that is awarded by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode in Paris. The term has been legally protected since it was originally established in 1945. In order for a label to be considered haute couture, it must produce made-to-order clothes in an atelier that employs 15 full-time employees, and it must also employ 20 full-time technical workers in at least one of its ateliers. Each piece in a collection needs to go through at least two different fittings, there must be a minimum of fifty original designs, and there must be both daytime and nighttime options. Collections must be designed for private clientele.
Around 20,000 couture collectors could be found all across the world in the year 1950. Since then, that customer base has been reduced to 4,000 people around the world. Despite the limited number of customers, Paris Couture Week is still regarded to be one of the most important Fashion Weeks on the Fashion Calendar. This is due to the fact that Paris is known as the capital of haute couture. However, couture is making a significant comeback in recent years. Elie Saab has disclosed the fact that the couture collections provide 45 percent of the brand’s total sales. The price of a custom-made couture dress can be anywhere from 50,000 to 300,000 dollars. Karl Lagerfeld previously designed a series of furs called “Haute Fourrure,” which was said to have price tags in the region of 800,000 dollars and above. Although it may not be the cash cow that ready-to-wear and cosmetics are, the entire haute couture business is still valued at 500 million dollars. Despite the fact that it may not be as lucrative as other markets, such as ready-to-wear and cosmetics, it is nevertheless profitable.
After closing its famous couture salon in 1968, Balenciaga’s creative director Demna Gvasalia decided to reintroduce the house’s haute couture collections since the industry continues to generate a significant amount of revenue. Because Cristobal Balenciaga was the only person who had ever designed couture for Balenciaga, Gvasalia’s rebirth represents a further consolidation of his own position in the annals of fashion history. The designer has already been given credit for bringing a new age of innovation to the Balenciaga brand and for helping to make the label the second most lucrative in the portfolio of its parent company, Kering, directly after Gucci.
Even though many people find Gvasalia’s designs to be puzzling and contentious, he has a profound knowledge of consumer psychology. This is evident in his shattered shoes and leather garbage bags, both of which he has designed. Given that many of Balenciaga’s items are well-known to be sold out, Gvasalia’s belief that Balenciaga needs to bring back couture is evidence enough to suggest that the market for couture is still healthy.
To conclude, it is impossible to accurately forecast the future of the fashion industry due to the very cyclical nature of buying patterns, haute couture is now in a stable position. Due to the fact that younger consumers have recently developed an interest in couture as a result of labels such as Balenciaga, couture will continue to exist in the future.
Reference:
Fraser, Kristopher. “What Is with the Resurgence in Couture?” FashionUnited, 19 Aug. 2022, https://fashionunited.com/news/fashion/what-is-with-the-resurgence-in-couture/2022082049254.
