Vaishali S, the namesake label of designer Vaishali Shadangule’s enduring passion for timeless Indian weaves, was established in 2004, and has since then, delved into the realm of authentic hand-woven textiles, ranging from the luxurious chanderi silk to the indigenous khun weave of Karnataka—a tradition that Vaishali played a pivotal role in revitalising.
Throughout its journey, the label has been consistently weaving narratives steeped in the cultural heritage of India. With a mission to showcase the richness of these diverse and intricate traditions on a global platform, label Vaishali S reimagines classic weaves in avant-garde silhouettes.
The resulting collections feature creations that can be compared to a masterpiece of wearable art, seamlessly blending tradition and modernity. These designs not only pay homage to their historical roots but also aim to captivate an international audience, making the brand a global ambassador of India’s rich textile heritage.
Vaishali’s journey to success followed a winding path, initially shaped by her pursuit of a degree in Computer Engineering, driven by the belief that it would lead to a better life. However, upon entering the field, she soon realised that it wasn’t her true calling.
| Vaishali S. is born from designer Vaishali Shadangule’s lifelong love for classic Indian weaves. The brand endeavours to take these diverse, intricate traditions to the global stage through innovative luxury fashion design. |
Her trajectory took an unexpected turn when she found herself in Mumbai where her innate sense of style and fashion began to draw attention, with people seeking her advice on dressing. This sparked her venture into styling and eventually crafting garments.
From this organic evolution, she took the bold step of opening her first store – a modest 40 square feet space. What began as a single endeavour soon blossomed into a series of successes— expanding to one more store and then five more.
“It was only then that I realised my passion for fashion and that I was quite good at it!” Vaishali Shadangule, Founder of Vaisali S label, told Apparel Resources, in an exclusive interview. She further added, “I also realised that (in order to grow further) I required some technical skills and knowledge, thus as soon as I had enough money, I did my post-graduation in Delhi and then my masters in Milan and by then I had already done my first Lakme Fashion week showcase as well!”
PRODUCT ASSORTMENT, PRICING AND TARGET MARKET
Vaishali S offers a diverse range of products catering to two primary segments: haute couture and ready-to-wear. In the haute couture category, bespoke pieces are meticulously crafted, with prices ranging from Rs.1,50,000 to Rs.5,00,000.
Meanwhile, the ready-to-wear collection spans various product categories, including tops, jackets, vests, pants, skirts, dresses and accessories, with prices ranging from Rs.50,000 to Rs.2,50,000.
Expanding its portfolio, the label recently introduced a home decor line that features a range of home accessories crafted from upcycled fabrics, adding a touch of artistic flair to the realm of interior design.
Commenting on the target audience of the label, Vaishali explained, “Given the two different segments, our brand has quite a wide spectrum of target audience. Also, the brand’s strong heritage roots on one side and the global silhouettes on the other one, make it possible to have clients within a wide age group of 25 to 60 years old.”
“Our more traditional looks attract more Indian audience, that gradually covers the NRIs with mixed content and we also attract a lot of Hollywood red carpet audience with more haute couture garments,” she added.
Experiencing a surge in demand from influencers seeking to be adorned in Vaishali S creations, the brand has extended its reach to cater to younger segments. Leveraging a strong online presence, Vaishali S has witnessed notable success in the Middle Eastern market, particularly in Saudi Arabia and the Emirates.
The brand has garnered a substantial following in the United Kingdom, as well as on both the East and West Coasts of the United States. This international acclaim underscores Vaishali S’s growing global appeal and recognition amongst diverse audiences.
TECHNIQUES AND DETAILS
The designer takes pride in her distinctive cording technique, which stands out as a highly recognisable and aesthetic hallmark of her creations. This unique approach serves as a powerful medium for expressing the emotions she intends to convey through her pieces.
“Some very typical handwork of mine where I mix embroideries with corded handwork made of leftover materials are now very distinctly recognisable, especially the pieces derived from my corals collection,” she explained.
| As a trailblazer of Indian handweaves and their globalisation, Vaishali S believes in adapting tradition to new sensibilities, creating garments that function as wearable art. |
In terms of content and ethos, Vaishali S is renowned for its unwavering commitment to using only handloom fabrics. This commitment extends beyond the design studio and resonates even on international platforms like the haute couture events, where Vaishali herself makes her voice heard.
Her commitment to this cause not only adds depth to her creations but also establishes her as an advocate for traditional craftsmanship on the global platform.
MANUFACTURING AND SOURCING
Established in 2014, Vaishali S takes pride in a team of around 50 skilled people today that help make Vaishali S Couture happen. The label’s main manufacturing unit is its own atelier located in South Mumbai, in Ballard Estates.
“Everything is manufactured in-house in South Mumbai, even our buttons made with leftovers. Our fabrics are made by weavers of different villages across seven states of India, mostly women,” Vaishali explained.
“We work and experiment with many materials and techniques. The main ones that are always present in most of our garments are Murshidabad silk-by-silk, chanderi, khun and kota doria.”
| “We were born out of sustainable practices and ethical growth has always been our first value. I personally come from a village and still today abide by sustainable, zero waste practices. The good of the society has always been above our own. These are the values I was born with and that I still carry today.” – Vaishali Shadangule, Founder of Vaisali S. |
Vaishali S explores various yarn sourcing locations, engaging in continuous experimentation with raw materials. The brand then collaborates with skilled artisans to hand weave these materials into fabrics like kota doria from Rajasthan; chanderi, maheshwari silk and merino wool from Madhya Pradesh; maithani from Maharashtra; khun from Karnataka; silk-by-silk, jamdani and Murshidabad silk from West Bengal, as well as kessapat and mekhla from Assam state.
By exclusively collaborating with handmade fabrics, Vaishali has crafted her unique range of textiles, each bearing the distinctive mark of her creative vision.
COLLECTION AND RANGE PLANNING
Vaishali S’s creative trajectory unfolds as a seamless exploration spanning across seasons, marked by a continued research and interpretation of one’s own feelings and personal emotions inspired by nature. This ongoing journey manifests in the artistic rendering of these emotions on the canvas of carefully crafted weaves and garments. The pinnacle of this artistic expression can be seen in the bespoke pieces featured in the ramp collections showcased during the prestigious Haute Couture week in Paris.
Derived from these exquisite creations are pieces that form the couture collection and the pre-à-porter collection. Each iteration represents a nuanced extension of the original, allowing the essence of Vaishali S’s artistic vision to be experienced across different lines, ensuring a harmonious continuity in the brand’s narrative.
| Recognising India’s historical role as a sourcing hub for luxury fabrics, Vaishali S feels a dual responsibility: reintroducing Indian handwoven fabrics to prestigious luxury platforms and concurrently upholding a steadfast commitment to sustainability and social impact as fundamental pillars for global success. |
The label presents two couture collections and two ready-to-wear collections every year. Vaishali S Couture does not work with stock and instead, produces all its garments on an order basis, both for private orders and retail. This allows it to have a stock mainly composed of sample pieces and display garments.
Vaishali S prioritises collaborations in the modern fashion and retail landscape, as demonstrated by notable partnerships such as the one with VIBRAM. Emphasising on shared values, particularly in sustainability, the brand’s collaborative efforts reflect a commitment to merging fashion with innovative and eco-friendly practices.
VIBRAM, a leading Italian brand specialising in technical soles, collaborated with Vaishali S to develop recycled and recyclable soles for its Paris Haute Couture collection. Notably, these innovative soles are designed to promote sustainability, allowing individuals to retain the sole while easily adding or substituting the upper part with sections of old clothing. Such collaborations serve as a testament to Vaishali S’s dedication to merging fashion with sustainable practices and pushing the boundaries of design innovation.
SUSTAINABILITY MEASURES
For over 20 years, Vaishali S has pledged its commitment to indigenous weaves and the communities that have been sustaining them for generations. The label has imbibed handloom textiles into its brand DNA and has perceived them to be wearable art forms.
The Vaishali S value system believes in a deeper sense of beliefs that become interwoven within the brand’s core. Its three major values are to elevate, to empower and to sustain.
Every strategic move taken by Vaishali S has been meticulously planned, with the overarching goal of elevating the ‘Made in India’ tag from a background role to the forefront of the design narrative. The emphasis throughout the process remains steadfastly on the art of weaving, ensuring that the essence of tradition remains untouched and integral at every stage of the design journey.
| Vaishali S garments are all made from 100 per cent natural, handwoven fabrics, sourced from Indian weavers and designed by Vaishali Shadangule. The brand prides in its sustainability mantra that is interwoven into its day-to-day activities and the respect it delegates throughout the supply chain. |
Commenting on the same, Vaishali said, “We never needed to talk or integrate sustainable and ethical practices in Vaishali S. We were born out of sustainable practices and ethical growth has always been our first value. I personally come from a village and still today abide by sustainable, zero-waste practices. The good of the society has always been above our own. These are the values I was born with and that I still carry today.”
The label works towards modernising hand-woven textile infrastructure to ensure sustainability and lessen its environmental impact.
Vaishali stated, “It is our unspoken promise to our weaver brethren to continue to use natural resources and handcrafted fabrics.”
In addition to this, Vaishali S consistently focuses on elevating the status of female artisans and weavers across the country, empowering and enabling them to make informed choices that progressively and sustainably enrich their lives.
“We seek to bring more artisan clusters into our family to add to the 900+ families that the brand currently supports,” Vaishali highlighted.
LOOKING AT THE FUTURE
Vaishali Shadangule expresses confidence that her eponymous label, Vaishali S is poised to become the premier global luxury brand originating from India. The global trend towards slow fashion, emphasising craftsmanship and quality, aligns with the brand’s ethos.
Recognising India’s historical role as a sourcing hub for luxury fabrics, Vaishali S feels a dual responsibility: reintroducing Indian handwoven fabrics to prestigious luxury platforms and concurrently upholding a steadfast commitment to sustainability and social impact as fundamental pillars for global success.
| AR: How does Vaishali S label ensure the quality and durability of its products?VS: Both quality and durability are synonymous with handlooms made in the old way. All our fabrics are made by skilled hand weavers with old techniques. I shouldn’t be saying it but I have been washing most of my garments in the washing machine, ten times over without any deterioration. I have also dived in the sea with a few of them several times for a shoot and they are still like new! We also try to make every piece almost as bespoke with a unique attention to detail and precision.AR: What unique business strategies have you implemented to stand out in the highly competitive industry?VS: In the last few years, after Covid and the achievement of the Paris Haute Couture official calendar in 2021, we have been focusing on strengthening the brand in this very high positioning.We have been developing our online presence and focusing only on our flagship store in Kala Ghoda for offline retail.Only recently we have started selling B2B again but that too to a very, very few selected multi-brand stores, that serve as the best in each country.AR: What do you have to say about the consumer’s shift in perception from quantity to quality?VS: It is finally happening. Consumers have realised that we have to save our planet and that the wastage from fast fashion is unethical. The change is happening, especially amongst the younger generations.Sustainability, quality, durability are attributes that are being celebrated more and more. |
